A German-Style Christmas in Japan

Christmas waves a magic wand over this world, and behold, everything is softer and more beautiful. – Norman Vincent Peale

It’s our first Christmas in Japan and things are in full swing.  Our house is decorated, including our first attempt at outside lights.  All our gifts to family and friends have been wrapped and mailed.  I finished Husband’s gifts this week, and they’re ready to go under the tree.  In some ways, it feels like a typical holiday season.  In others, it’s quite different.  It’s not as cold here as I was expecting (although I know our time is coming).  Instead of traveling to visit family and friends, we’ve been exploring the local sights and sounds.  One thing we didn’t expect to find was a variety of German-style Christmas markets.

Christmas markets originated in Germany as early as the 14^th century.  Also called Christkindlmarkt (Christ child market), they usually start to pop up during the four weeks of Advent.  I’ve never been to Germany, and I had no idea such markets existed.  Housed in open-air stalls, vendors offer food, drink and sometimes crafts for sale.  Similar German-style markets are set up all over Japan.  We didn’t realize this at the start of the season, and it was a happy accident that we found our first one in Yokohama.  Here are some thoughts on the four markets we were able to visit this year.

Red Brick Warehouse – Yokohama

According to its website, the market at Yokohama’s Red Brick Warehouse is in its 9^th year.  German-style Huttes (huts) line both sides of the walk between the two warehouses.  This was our first Christmas market, and we found it by accident while wandering around the city.  This particular market is great.  It has an ice rink, which is cute and fun, as well as the convenience of shopping at the warehouses.

Husband found some German beer to drink, and on a later visit, I indulged in milk tea with tapioca balls.  (I’m sure that’s the proper name).  There’s glühwein, also known as mulled wine, for sale along with handmade stollen.  You’ll find similar food and drink offerings at most of the Christmas markets – beer, pretzels, cheese, sausage, glühwein, hot chocolate.  I expected more in terms of handmade craft items, but there were only 2-3 stalls selling something other than ready-to-eat food.

Hibiya Park – Tokyo

Husband and I, along with some friends, stopped by the Christmas Market in Hibiya Park one Saturday evening.  We were told this is the only market in Japan sponsored by the German embassy.  It was by far the biggest, and most crowded, of the markets we visited.  There were loads of food stalls, including dessert.  If you went hungry, it was your own fault.  Thankfully, there were several tented areas with tables and chairs to sit and eat.  Propane heat lamps offered spots to warm up.

While there were surprisingly few crafts, the food was great.  The main tent area had a stage for live entertainment.  The main attraction in this market is the large wooden Christmas tree erected near the center of the activity.  One local source says the wooden tree is 14 meters tall and comes straight from Germany!  Although it was cold and a bit of a trek to go visit, this market lives up to the hype.

Roppongi Hills – Tokyo

I had read about this market on various blogs and newspapers, so when Husband and I were in Tokyo for my birthday festivities, we knew this was on our list.  Roppongi Hills Christmas Market is probably one of the most well-known in the city (aside from Hibiya Park).  Although it was a little hard to find, this market was probably my favorite.  The smallest we’d seen so far, it offered the biggest selection of handmade wares.  And, as a bonus, it was in a covered outdoor space!  This year’s sponsor was Volkswagen.  As avid players of the “punch buggy game,” Husband and I made sure to call all the red vans we saw.  I want to go on record saying I won the day (fair and square, not just because it was my birthday)!

While walking through the streets to the market, Husband and I noticed the trees covered in lights.  Apparently, this area has a pretty impressive light display.  Because we visited during the day, we missed out.  But we plan to visit again before the lights come down.  Although it was the smallest market we’d seen so far, this one was probably my favorite.

Yebisu Garden Place – Tokyo

Yebisu Christmas Marche was the last market on our list.  It came recommended by a number of sources, but in my opinion, the market at Yebisu Garden Place was the most disappointing.  With only 3 small stalls of craft items, it hardly seemed worth our time to make the trip out.  I will say, we visited during the day.  Had we gone to see the area at night, I’m thinking the Christmas lights would have made up for some of my disappointment.  Although the German food part of the market atmosphere is missing, there’s plenty of food to choose from in the surrounding buildings.

On display in the market center is the Eternal Lights Baccarat crystal chandelier.  It currently stands as the world’s biggest Baccarat chandelier, boasting 8.472 crystal pieces.  Directly behind the chandelier is a special champagne bar that’s open until Christmas day.  Although we didn’t partake, this adds to the romantic atmosphere of this market.  I look forward to seeing this market and illumination next season at night.

Although our Christmas this year is different than year’s past, Husband and I have been enjoying the season in the city.  Christmas isn’t a holiday in Japan – this year it falls on a Tuesday and children are still expected to go to school.  Thankfully Christmas lights and Christmas spirit still abound!

Traveling this season?  Hanging out at home?  Leave me a comment and tell me about your Christmas traditions – old and new!